R2 Drive System
Nov 21, 2017

This is the same drive system I have in my first R2 and my R5. I purchased the material at a local metal supply place for about $30. The tools I have used were a drill, a hack saw and a jigsaw. Click on the images for a larger one Note that I am using 2x4in rectangular aluminum tubing and you will have to check the inside dimensions of your foot shells as it can be very tight. A 3x4 tubing would work

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8001.jpg

Here is the aluminum tubings marked out with a marker to show where I want to cut. The cross location will depend on your belt length and the diameter of your wheel. Older scooters had 4in wheels while newer ones had 5in wheels. My designs have always pushed the wheel as far back of the foot shell as possible for stability. A jigsaw was used to cut the length of 2x4 to the shorter lengths needed.

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8002.jpg

Here is the other side of the tubings. Note the location of the 3 holes for the scooter motor as the belt or chain will have to miss the motor mount. As you will see later.

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8003.jpg

The inside of the 2x4 that will have to be cut out to allow clearance for the wheel, motor and belt.

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The top and bottom of the 2x4. The top has nothing at the moment while the bottom has the hole for the wheel and belt.

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8005.jpg

I drill holes to prepare for the jigsaw.

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8006.jpg

More holes drilled.

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8007.jpg

And the final holes drilled.

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8008.jpg

The jigsaw takes time but it does work. If it feels like you are applying a lot of force to get the jigsaw to cut through the aluminum I will put in a new blade.

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8009.jpg

I tried to get fancy and angle the jigsaw to get the end pieces angles. This added some time to the cutting process and was not really needed.

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8010.jpg

It did look pretty when I finally got the angled cutting to but in hindsight not worth it.

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8011.jpg

Ooooo pretty.

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8012.jpg

It took me about 3 hours to do all the cutting with short breaks in there to rest the hand from the vibrations.

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8013.jpg

Angled cut vs straight cut. Yes the angled cut looks nicer but the whole thing looks rough anyways and it will be hidden so the choice is up to you.

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8014.jpg

Upper and lower view of the top piece.

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8015.jpg

Finally done. Left and right drive assemblies

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8016.jpg

Test fitting the motor to the holes drilled to make sure they fit. Note: The motor I got the scooter from has the longer screws and spacers that I used here to mount the motor to the drive system.

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8017.jpg

Just to show the other side.

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8018.jpg

Another view. During the final assembly I actually had to open up the circle a bit more as part of it was hitting the motor housing.

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8019.jpg

Another view.

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8020.jpg

Top view.

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8021.jpg

Here are some photos of what is in my R2 now. The top and bottom tubings are bolted together at the front and the rear. The shelf to the left is cut from aluminum angle and is the shelf where the battery will sit. In my new R2 it is slightly different. What connects the drive system to the leg is rectangular tubing cut to shape and is bolted directly to the drive system and the leg. This makes the entire leg assembly very rigid.

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8022.jpg

I distribute the weight of the droid I used the front wheel bolted to the rear wheel to get dual wheels. This will make it easier to drive on plush carpet. When transporting R2 I can thread a strap through the lower lip to hold R2 to anchor points in my vehicle.

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8023.jpg

A good view of the cross slot and the belt tensioning system.

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8024.jpg

A good view of the spacers that came with the scooter I used.

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8025.jpg

Another view.

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8026.jpg

Notes: I made the drive system as big as possible to fit under the foot shell so if the foot shell gets hit a lot of the forces will go into the drive system and hopefully not damage the foot shell. The drive system gives me a good lifting point if needed. I can wrap a strap through the drive system to belt in my droid to anchor points in my vehicle to prevent it from moving forward during sudden stops or an accident.