A&A Periscope Rev 3
Oct 27 2009, Revised Nov 26, 2009
This is the A&A Periscope assembly tutorial. Although it was designed mainly
for the periscope it can be used to lift any other item in an R2 type dome. This
kit was designed for the proper shaped dome. If your dome curvature is slightly
different you may need to modify the height of the lift to fit in the dome space.
The lift was designed for a droid with the A&A Gear set and a rockler type bearing.
If you do not have one or the other you can still use this lift but slight
modifications may be needed. You might need to add spacers. With the Rockler
bearing and A&A gear, the bottom of the lift will not drop down into the body.
This kit will work with any of the current run of frames.
(A&A, Senna, JAG, COM-8, etc)
I got some 6-32x1-1/2" Pan head screws to join the parts. They are a bit long
for some of the applications but they can be cut to size where needed.
First off I drilled a mounting hole (0.125" Dia) into the white piece.
I used the upper bracket slot as a guide to where the hole is to be placed.
Look at final assembly photos to get a better understanding as to why this
hole is being drilled and where it is to be located. The 0.125" Dia hole
fits the #6-32 machine screws I am using to assemble the parts. If you are
using other size screws (ie Metric) you might need a slightly different size
hole. This has to be done at 4 locations. Twice on each side piece.
Once the holes are drilled these are the parts you need for the assembly.
Note that the white piece maybe slightly different in the kit that people
receive. On the right side there will be 2 arms like the left side instead
of only one as shown.
NOTE: For the rack (white part) make sure to clean up any flash or melted
plastic from the laser cutting process with a file.
Again I used #6-32 machine screws to assemble the two sides. There are
pre-cut holes that will help you line up the parts. The screws I had are
too long for the assembly but I can cut them back later if needed
Here is the motor I used (www.jameco.com) Part No 253534. The part has been
designed to help mount this motor to the assembly. Extra parts are supplied
so that other motors can be used. I mounted the motor with (2) 2-56 screws
0.375 in long.
The mounting screws have to be flush with the surface so I used a drill to
carefully make some countersinks. Be careful if you use a drill bit as it
tends to try and pull the drill bit in, which will make the hole deeper then
And here is the motor mounted to the kit part. The screws did not come with
the motor so I had to go buy some.(2-56) Here I used only 2 of the 3 mounting
The next 2 parts are then mounted. The top middle piece has been glued to
the second piece using the holes to line it up. You cannot see them here
but I used a #6-32 machine screw from the back to assemble the parts. The
holes are not big enough for the screw to slide through so it makes a slight
thread as it goes through. On the second piece you will notice a slot that
I cut out of the piece. This was done so I can access the setscrew for the
hub I mounted to the gear later.
To be able to mount the gear to the motor shaft I need a hub.
I started with the hub from www.robotshop.ca Lynixmotion Hub-06. The
screws are provided with the hub. The inner diameter for the hub is for a
smaller motor shaft so I opened it up with a drill bit to fit my motor.
The back side of the motor assembly showing the #6-32 screws I am using to
assemble the thing. I thread the screws through as I add the parts.
Add a bit of grease to the gears to make it run smoother.
I used what I had lying around (automotive grease). Add the gear and tighten the set screw
through the side opening I created earlier.
The second gear slides onto one of the machine screws. I have also added
the bottom piece of the 3rd layer
Layer 4 to be added
Layer 4 added
Layer 5 added. Ignore the hot glue bits as the prototype parts have gone
through quite a bit
Add the final washers and nuts and the motor assembly is finished.
NOTE: To prevent binding of this assembly with the side racks, it is
advised to bevel the edge of the assembly with a file so the top
or bottom edge does not catch with the rack as it travels up and down
Glue these 2 parts together to make the lift arm. I used hot glue and it
has been fine through all my testing
Glue the lift arm to the motor assembly
The top of the lift arm has been added.
The 2 vertical arms are bolted to the frame. The slots in the base allow
adjustability. Once the final location is set and all the testing has been
good, the parts should be glued for added strength. I used hot glue as it
is fairly strong and it can be removed if necessary with little to no
damage to the parts.
Next add the lifting assembly. Make sure the gears mesh properly and that
the lifting assembly is level. Add power to the motor to cycle the assembly
up and down a couple of times. It maybe rough at first but is should soon
smooth out. If you cannot get the assembly to be level try flipping the
vertical arms side to side to see if that improves things. One reason
to not glue everything just yet.
Next add the top piece.
Next bolt on the top bracket. As with the base when you are happy with the
location and all the testing has been good, the parts should be glued
The next pieces to be added will be the front guides. The kit supplied
parts will be slightly different from what you see here.
The front guides installed
Another view. The next step for the builder would be to add limit switches.
WARNING: Be very careful when running the assembly through the top and bottom
limits. The motor and gears are fairly strong and you could damage the
assembly if you go past the top and bottom limits and things start to jam.
Once all the parts have been glued together check on how stable the assembly is.
Add weights to the top of the lifting arm and run the assembly up and down
IF you still think it needs to be stiffer use the provided triangular gussets to
brace the vertical columns